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Author Topic: Wolverine's F16 Block 52  (Read 63522 times)

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #195 on: July 29, 2017, 10:28:25 AM »
"small" problem during the pit replacement phase ......
the flat 5-inch monitor cable was broken.
Does anybody have suggestions on how to fix it?

I, after cutting the cable near the tear, was trying to scrape off the lining to get out of the slots so that it would fit directly into the junction with the flat extension that goes to the board, but without good results, the cable is too much thin   :brickwall:



sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #196 on: August 03, 2017, 07:47:43 AM »
Nobody knows how to give me an advice or an operating tip?
Do you know if there are terminal blocks that allow me to intercept the flat cable tracks without having to scrape it?

I'm sorry to put off the display, otherwise running, just because it damaged the flat cable  :'(
Thank you.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2017, 12:45:48 PM by Kukki »


sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #197 on: August 03, 2017, 12:39:25 PM »
@Wolverine : Every case seems to be different! It all depends on the kind of ribbon cable, and the sockets it attaches to. Most probably on a display, the ribbon comes out of the display's internals, and you only have a socket on the controller pcb. Which means that you cannot replace the entire ribbon with a spare part.
A method would be to sand the ribbon's edge to a point where the cables' lines project some conductive surface. Then, you either connect that edge directly to the pcb connector, or try (yeah, right) to make an extension by soldering thin gauge wires to the lines.
Various cases have had various methods of repair, some successfull, some not. I've read that you could slightly heat the ribbon to a point where the insulating film can be removed, but you'd have to experiment with that.
If you could remove the ribbon cable completely, maybe you could try and solder wires directly from the display to the controller.
Anyone with retro-computer experience can verify that we've had similar problems with the ZX Spectrum keyboard membranes. There used to be people who managed to copy the membrane schematics and print it to transparent film with conductive ink!
I hope you can work things out, but whatever the right solution is, it surely isn't for the faint-hearted..
Some examples of similar jobs:

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/42965/fixing-replacing-conductor-ribbon-cable
https://lowpowerlab.com/2012/12/29/ti-83-plus-screen-calculator-fix/
http://p1repair.com/blog/2013/05/30/lcd-repair-missing-lines/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1Lve6lHeOw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzqIoq8LEEc

Offline Kukki

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #198 on: August 03, 2017, 12:46:32 PM »
Nobody knows how to give me an advice or an operating tip?
Do you know if there are terminal blocks that allow me to intercept the flat cable tracks without having to scrape it?

I'm sorry to put off the display, otherwise running, just because it damaged the flat cable  :'(
Thank you.

Damn man, just saw I edited your post Wolverine, now I quete it :-)  sorry

Hey mate!
I have not ever seen that you can get those fine connectors to add on on those cables, not said that they are not out there.
but I think they are made special for that batch of screens, and if it brakes its over, sad to say, but the marked for that kind of mishaps is very small, and therefor I dont think you can get a fis for your problem, but lets see, there might be someone who knows something  :thumbsup:
Kukki - (Skype: kukki_22)

Offline ZoomOut

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #199 on: August 03, 2017, 02:59:19 PM »
@ Wolverine

I don't how many pins your cable have, but I know that Chinetobby have some different sizes. If you havn't had a look at their selection yet - and a change of the hole cable is an option - try take a look at this link:

http://stores.ebay.com/chinatobby/category521662419-/_i.html?_fsub=521662419&_sid=1070328859&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Best regards ;)
ZoomOut

Edit: Just noticed, that your cable reads 50 ;)
I know they have those... as well as connectors :)
« Last Edit: August 03, 2017, 03:06:58 PM by ZoomOut »

Offline sagrzmnky

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #200 on: August 04, 2017, 01:58:42 AM »
I had a ribbon cable tear on one of my 3.5 inch screens. I just bit the bullet and replaced the whole screen. I know that is not what you want to hear though.
Phillip "Grease Monkey" Clark

My build thread
http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=6942.0
 Pokeys, x-keys, Mike's panels, Ribbstick

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #201 on: August 04, 2017, 10:46:10 AM »
The problem is pretty hard, I tried to remove the film to try a weld, but it's too thin and the tracks break. :brickwall:
My displays come from chinatobby, including flat extensions and connectors, but unfortunately, as some of you say, replacing the "mother" flat cable from display is almost impossible.
damn! I have a rage, in the pit building I step forward and four back.
I will try to fix it before ordering a new one, hoping they will not pay me the customs charges.

Thank you all for suggestions and help ..... I will keep you informed.


sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #202 on: August 19, 2017, 10:27:18 AM »
Secondary Power Box
I just built a wooden box
To accommodate the 720W PC power supply ...
... made the internal outputs of the power supply outputs with the terminal blocks ...
.... and four rubber gaskets to make the box more stable ...
.... to be continued!!
« Last Edit: August 19, 2017, 10:32:51 AM by Wolverine »


sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!

Offline goody

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #203 on: August 20, 2017, 06:17:12 AM »
Hi Wolverine,

I think your wire size from the power supply (PS) connector to your housing output is too small.
You use a AWG 17 or 16 wire. Your PS spend 22A by any voltages. That's a too high current density.
If you use the original PS cable and connector you must connect all Pins from the same voltage to yor housing output.
That increase your wire size.

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #204 on: August 21, 2017, 03:47:48 AM »
@goody: Infinitely thanks for your attention and interest.
So should I use cables of the same size as the cables coming out of the ATX power supply to the terminal box and the terminal block itself to create bridges?
Then ... from the terminals to the various peripherals, what dimensions should the cables have? How do I calculate it?

At present, is there a risk of harm to hardware components?


sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!

Offline goody

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #205 on: August 21, 2017, 06:00:39 AM »


Quote
Then ... from the terminals to the various peripherals, what dimensions should the cables have? How do I calculate it?

The calculation is simple.
J = I / A
J = current density
I = current (A)
A = wire size (mm ^ 2)

But you must know the maximum continuous current density (DC) for your cable type.
A convenient and easy way for you is to add up all the cable sizes for a voltage. Then you have the original cable size. Then you take a cable with the same isolation type.

Offline henkie

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #206 on: August 21, 2017, 07:05:15 AM »
Just keep in mind that the current drawn from each output *adds* to the total current that goes through the input wiring. If each output draws 1 Amp, and you have 5 outputs in use, the current drawn from the input is 5 Amps.
Clearly, the wiring that allows for 5 Amps needs to be thicker than the wiring for 1 Amp.
I have posted (not sure it was in my own build thread) a table showing wire diameter and allowable current.

Check the following posts:
http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=537.msg132479#msg132479
It shows a table, and just before that also some good ideas about documentation.
(I cannot stress enough how important it is to take time to write *everything* down)
« Last Edit: August 21, 2017, 08:47:30 AM by henkie »

Offline goody

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #207 on: August 21, 2017, 03:18:50 PM »

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #208 on: August 22, 2017, 07:26:15 AM »
Many thanks guys, I will treasure your help.


sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!

Offline Wolverine

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Re: Wolverine's F16 Block 52
« Reply #209 on: September 17, 2017, 02:45:43 AM »
My first two pieces of ACES II seat
are the 18 mm thick pieces cut from multilayer wood.

Waiting to fix the problem of 24mm pieces (most)
since it is a measure I can not find for either the multilayer or the MDF!


sorry for my english!!                                                Italian journal of my pit!!