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Author Topic: Salaxi54's pit progress  (Read 183628 times)

Offline Hagakure

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #525 on: July 28, 2017, 04:55:22 PM »
Glad you received them in good condition Vasilios.  Makes a lot more sense that someone put them to good use rather than they just gather dust on my shelf. Look forward to seeing them in action.
Gary
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One must obtain victory before the sword is drawn.

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #526 on: July 31, 2017, 04:01:58 PM »
Thanks Gary, i just started soldering components. May i add that i recently purchased a USB microscope, which has proven real handy! I recommend it wholeheartedly, especially for members around my age +  :harhar:



I just have to keep an eye on the monitor to see things big enough not to mess around..



For anyone who cares, this is where i got it from:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-50-500X-2MP-USB-8-LED-Light-Digital-Microscope-Endoscope-Camera-Magnifier/251910416916?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Cheap n' cheerful   ;)

Online uri_ba

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #527 on: July 31, 2017, 05:01:40 PM »
That PCB is oddly fimiliar ;)

Offline henkie

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #528 on: August 01, 2017, 02:10:18 AM »
Yeah, that modern SMD stuff is a pita for us old farts   :D
Even when not using SMD parts, I wear glasses and still need a magnifying glass with illumination around it   :(

Are you using RoHS solder @salaxi54 ???
If you use "normal" Pb-based solder you should see a nice solder to pin transition on the pins.
Looking at the picture with the 125 SMD resistor, the soldering of the 3 pins seems to just be "against" the pin surface, but not really soldered. This is very good visible on the most-right pin. This might happen if the soldering iron is not sufficiently hot (probably not the cause), or the pin was not sufficiently heated to let the solder flow (a common cause).
But I must admit, RoHS soldering looks very different than the old-fashioned good lead-based soldering.
My advise: stay away from RoHS if you can!

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #529 on: August 13, 2017, 07:22:47 AM »
Hey there fellow aviators! Before the minor "gap" of lost posts, i was telling @henkie that i managed to acquire some pb (RoHs - free) solder, and the results were much better.
Here's a small example of the solder work:



Anyway, today i managed to find some free time and worked on the indexers. Got some aluminum profile, that seemed ideal for the case:



And did some cutting to required shapes:







Here's a rough idea of how the LED pcb fits in there:



There's more parts to cut for the assembly, and then some sanding and paint 'till it's complete.



Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #530 on: August 19, 2017, 12:43:13 PM »
Another minor update on the indexers. Cut the remaining parts from a thin metal roof-top cover.
It's something like this: http://theoprofil.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/xteni_panel_trap-254x203.png

Here's the part i cut the pieces from:








And here's the front pieces assembled using rivets:


Offline sagrzmnky

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #531 on: August 19, 2017, 11:18:32 PM »
@salaxi54 that looks awesome. I have the real thing and those look just like them. Although, I am not sure what the length is on the hood part of yours, but they may be a little too short. The front hood part of the real ones seem to be much longer. Fantastic job as always.  :beer:
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Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #532 on: August 21, 2017, 07:31:31 AM »
@sagrzmnky : Phillip, thanks for your comments! Yes, i understand the front piece may be a little too short in length, but the aluminum was too short in total, so i had to split pieces as evenly as possible for both pairs.. I sometimes have to work with what i find here and there.
Anyway, some more progress on the assembly. I cut some 4mm plexiglass to fill the frame, and this is what it looks like now:



Then test-fitted the rest of the pieces:





I know there's some marks here n' there, but it will actually look like "natural wear" LOL.  :D

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #533 on: August 22, 2017, 07:47:50 AM »
Yet another update. This time it has to do with servo control. Digging in my stash, i found a Torobot USC-24 servo controller i bought around 2012-13 and never got to test.
Literature is scarce on this, but i managed to get it basically working! This one can take 24 servos onboard, and they make up to 32-servo models. It needs 5vdc for servo power, and connects to your PC via USB. The accompanied software is not that complicated, although choosing English language, still keeps some functions in Chinese..  :grumbl:
Here's the board with a single servo connected to port S01:



and a screenshot (from camera) of the main program controlling it:



There's sliders for every channel (servo), which when you move left-right it translates to servo motion. My servos are the ultra-cheap Tower-Pro SG90 mini servos, but i was wondering if i get to purchase some 360 degree model, what would happen?
Anyway, i sure hope it can be easy to utilize with Falcon instead of having to purchase a Pololu or something else. I found that lots of people have used it with Arduino, so this is a positive sign.

Offline henkie

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #534 on: August 23, 2017, 06:40:57 AM »
If you connect a 360-degree rotation servo, it will work also as expected.
The most-left slider position will still coincide with "0 degrees" and the most-right slider position will now coincide with 360-degrees rotation instead of 180-degrees.
Effectively, when the rotation angle increases, the resolution decreases.
Note that the "180-degrees rotation" servos seldom (never) can make a full 180 degrees rotation (approx 170 at best).
I do not know how much of the 360 degrees is covered by a "360-degree servo" (350?).

The more-than-180-degrees rotation servos tend to be a lot more expensive, so you could look into some cheap RC plastic gears to get the ratio you need for the specific instrument. 1:2 is always OK, but keeping the resolution in mind, you might go for a different ratio, say 1:1.8 which would probably be sufficient for, for example, EPU on right AUX.
Trouble with gears is that you might not have the required space available if you build the mechanism in a tube.
But your "handcraft" skills will likely have a solution for that   ;D
In OIL, HYD PRESS and probably NOZ POS the RC servo is too big to use a tube (1"and 1.5" diameter).

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #535 on: August 23, 2017, 12:31:11 PM »
@henkie : Thanks for your reply my friend! I think it's best i get me a "winch" servo instead of the 360 one, but this might make things a little more complicated. For the heck of it, i might just buy both kind, being a modeler these things can always become useful somewhere else.. They might cost a little more than your average servo, but it sure beats buying anything else! The most serious problem would be to make Falcon understand the interface and communicate with it.
Anyway, here's todays' progress on the indexers:









Now, i know what some of you are thinking, but those are not functional dimmers there. It's just an "artistic approach" to make things look nicer.  :D
Next step will be installing the internals.

Offline Kukki

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #536 on: August 23, 2017, 03:37:25 PM »
Hehe that is some cool work there man, I just love your DIY work  :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Indexers looks very very good.

Keep up the good work Salaxi  :vprules:
Kukki - (Skype: kukki_22)

Offline sagrzmnky

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #537 on: August 23, 2017, 05:41:23 PM »
I have an idea for you. Get a small ball bearing, make an indention in the case to hold it in place and put it under the dimmer as the detent.
Phillip "Grease Monkey" Clark

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Offline Moon

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #538 on: August 24, 2017, 07:41:42 AM »
360 degree and winch servos are not suitable for gauges.  They are "continuous rotation" servos that lack position feedback.

What you require is a multi-turn servo, but they're hard to find.  The cheaper option is to modify an ordinary servo (like your Tower Pro) or use external gears.

Offline henkie

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #539 on: August 24, 2017, 03:20:56 PM »
Correct.
I have a 3.5 turn winch servo, but it is not continuous rotation. It behaves like a "normal" servo, but then capable of 3.5 360 degrees rotation.
Indeed, continuous rotation servos are useless for out purpose.
Maybe "multi-turn" servo is a better name.