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Author Topic: Salaxi54's pit progress  (Read 158240 times)

Offline henkie

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #480 on: March 21, 2017, 03:25:44 AM »
Hat off  :thumbsup:
Not only very nicely done, but it also shows your patience and vision of what you are making  :clap:

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #481 on: March 21, 2017, 05:24:00 AM »
Thank you all for your comments! The mask is an item to keep me busy in times when i cannot work on larger-more complicated parts. Anyway, here's a little something that came in the mail recently. (I'm an Amigan above all)


Offline Predator

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #482 on: March 21, 2017, 10:14:15 AM »
Thank you all for your comments! The mask is an item to keep me busy in times when i cannot work on larger-more complicated parts. Anyway, here's a little something that came in the mail recently. (I'm an Amigan above all)

 :o very interesting!

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #483 on: March 28, 2017, 01:49:17 AM »
Hey fellas, this is actually an irrelevant question, but i figured someone might know..
Can anyone suggest a proper switch that would allow me to switch between two power sources on the Raspberry Pi? I need to be able to switch between the actual power supply and the solar panel. This means i need a switch that can open and close two sets of 4 contacts, preferably a slide switch, of the ON/OFF/ON or ON/ON nature. A toggle switch won't do, i need something rather small.
Thanks in advance!

Offline Rufus

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #484 on: March 28, 2017, 02:01:52 AM »
Any DPDT make before break switch should do the trick...but I'd suggest a toggle or rotary rather than a slide, in conjunction with a current limiter.
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Offline henkie

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #485 on: March 28, 2017, 03:05:26 AM »
That's a tricky one ...

When the closing contacts close before the breaking contacts break, you have to take care of equalization currents that may flow from the power supply to the solar cells or from the solar cells to the power supply. Assuming that one power source will probably have a higher voltage than the other, you could take care of that with a power diode to block the current flow.

When the breaking contacts break before the closing contacts close you may have a short interruption of power to the Raspberry Pi. Thus, the RPi will reboot. Possibly you can use a super capacitor to overcome the short power-not-connected state.

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #486 on: March 28, 2017, 05:37:03 AM »
Thank you both for your replies, there's no intention to switch between the two with the Pi "live". Just a switch as a selector of power source. Both sources would give 5vdc at approx. 2Amps.
A toggle or a rotary switch would be bulcky; i need something that does not extend too much from the casing.
Something like this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Pcs-8-Pins-ON-OFF-ON-3-Positions-DP3T-Panel-Horizontal-Mini-Slide-Switch-/291534128435?hash=item43e0c9c533:g:KgwAAOSw2gxYuLcY
Although i see no schematics... I need one position to close 4 contacts, then off (or no middle position) and then on, closing another 4 contacts.

Offline Rufus

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #487 on: March 28, 2017, 02:55:11 PM »
Google "4 pole triple throw switch" - one example:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/dimarzio-three-position-on-on-on-4pdt-pickup-selector-switch?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=CI7qsbrv-dICFQQpaQodI3sPiw&kwid=productads-adid^156727059247-device^c-plaid^143220055242-sku^424669000000000@ADL4MF-adType^PLA

You can always use an ON-ON-ON type, and simply not wire the center position...which is what I think you are going to do anyway?
- Rufus

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #488 on: March 29, 2017, 04:41:22 AM »
@Rufus: Roger that! So basically any 4PDT 3-position switch will do. As long as it's not bulky. Time to go searching! Thanks.  :thumbsup:

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #489 on: April 14, 2017, 06:01:28 AM »
Got me some momentary switches, and thought i'd share with y'all. Seeing as most everyone uses what they consider appropriate for their Jettison switch, i thought i'd give these a go. So, my intention is to use two pieces for Emer Stores Jettison and for the Horn Silencer.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/COCKPIT%20AND%20AMIGA/JETTISON%20SW_zps3vmxwfcn.jpg
Salaxi54's pit progress


Here's where i got them from:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122315631862?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=422804967365&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Offline Rufus

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #490 on: April 14, 2017, 07:50:24 PM »
A guitar stomp switch is a nearly exact replica of the EMERG JETT switch, and very cheap...I've seen them for as low as under $2 US on E-bay.  You just need to paint the cap white, and presto.
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Offline Sandman

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #491 on: April 16, 2017, 03:58:54 AM »
IIRC, the real EMERG JETT switch is recessed into the LG panel, and it has a protective plastic cover that is broken as the switch is pushed - (probably to prevent accidental Jettisons).  I suppose simmers will be using this switch more than real pilots do.  I can only imagine the paperwork that gets filed when a real pilot needs to push it.

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #492 on: May 19, 2017, 12:12:27 AM »
Hey there fellow builders! These past few days i have been busy with the DEDuino project. Purchased the 2.8" yellow OLED028-1 screen, and using a Due board.
Question time!
1. Am i right to understand that i have to use the Serial connection profile, or is Parallel the correct?
2. I have removed R18 and soldered to R19, i believe this is correct, just want to make sure..
3. Is it correct that there's no uncommenting needed on the code for using this setup as i believe it is the default one?
4. Will a single Due board be capable of driving all peripherals? (DED, PFL, FFI, Caution Panel, Indexers, and Speed-brake indicator) Or is this pushing the Due too much?
5. My current connection is as follows:

DUE               OLED

GND               Pin 1   VSS
Pin 9              Pin 14 /DC
Pin 8              Pin 16 /CS
SPI SCK         Pin 4   DB0 (SCLK)
SPI Reset      Pin 15 /RESET
SPI GND        Pin 5   DB1 (SDIN)

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/COCKPIT%20AND%20AMIGA/DED%201_zpsibeiriwv.jpg
Salaxi54's pit progress


http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/COCKPIT%20AND%20AMIGA/DED%202_zpsoihsjyg8.jpg
Salaxi54's pit progress


http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/COCKPIT%20AND%20AMIGA/DED%203_zpsmqaewthv.jpg
Salaxi54's pit progress


Thanks to @uri_ba for making this important system available!

Offline uri_ba

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #493 on: May 19, 2017, 07:01:21 PM »
1. 4 Pin Serial (SPI)
2. Sounds right
3. for default is DED, FFI and AOA on.
4. Driving everything off a Single Due is not a problem, I'm doing it myself.
The code is doing some "trickery" in the code. during a single loop, I'm calling things based on the required visible refresh rate. AOA is called several times in a loop because it's right in your face, same with FFI, because it's being animated and it needs to be smooth.

DED is called once a loop, and the rest are rotating, so PFD, caution panel, speedbreak etc, are called once every several loops but it's not something you'll notice.

5. one mistake, Display reset pin should not be tied to the arduino Reset. it should be tied high (to VCC). in addition, if you look at the screens Datasheet, you'll see that you need to tie a lot of pins to ground. I would recommend you do, I have no idea what the display controller will do in some cases when it has all those floating wires. IIRC, only 2 pins (3&6 i think) are defined as N/C (not connected).

HTH,
Uri

Offline salaxi54

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Re: Salaxi54's pit progress
« Reply #494 on: May 20, 2017, 06:09:19 AM »
Thanks a lot Uri, yes, it does help a lot. I'll follow your instructions, and whatever the results, i'll update here.  :thumbsup: