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Author Topic: Red Dog's pit - I finally started  (Read 670847 times)

Offline Ka-Bar03

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #615 on: May 20, 2007, 10:40:16 PM »
Noted, thanks
Quote from: "Red Dog"
yep, that was pretty easy to do Mike, no worries.

I think that the backplate might need some modifications though.
Enlarge the trim wheels holes
And also, the semi round holes for the trim gauges shouldn't be there. The backplate is normally the support for the gauge and the dots are directly embossed on the backplate. The needles rotates above all that and actually all we need is a tiny hole for the needle axe to go through.

Now it might be easier for other application to have those semi circular holes as you implemented them, so I don't know for the others.

And finally, there's a screw hole missing on the backplate :) the one just above the YAW knob. There's a screw hole in the lightplate but not in the backplate.

All those minor details and I'm very happy to have such a great Trim panel thanks to you Mike  :D

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Offline Jarrod66

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #616 on: May 20, 2007, 11:33:22 PM »
Great work RedDog,

Your stuff is just awesome.  I look forward to seeing more...

Jarrod

Offline AiRdAncE

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #617 on: May 21, 2007, 12:46:01 AM »
Quote from: "Kabar03"
sorry, spelled Bubi

He is a member here. Check the member list or email me.

Ill delete these in a few Olivier


Sent this guy 2 PM's over the last few days. No reaction at all... is this guy for real ? Did he contact you, RD ?
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Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #618 on: May 21, 2007, 04:57:17 AM »
Nope AD, no answer from him. I just got outbid for a kit of 2 bayonet receiver for the helmet on ebay...grrr

back on topic, here's a question that always bothered me and I am now in the thick of it with the placement of the AP mag switch.

First I always wondered why there was a NOTCH on the lower left part of the center panel of Jason drawing... now I know. Without the notch the mag switch doesn't fit.
So I had to dig that notch on the installed panel so the mag switch can be placed correctly.

Guys be smarter than me, if there is a cut you don't want to do because you think you don't need it. Do it anyway. One day you might need it and it will be painfull to do  :twisted:

Then comes the hard part:

Here's a picture of the real bird where the LEFT AUX meets the front panel. As you see thanks to the red arrow, there's no gap between the AUX and the front panel MISC support.

Now, when I mount the magswitch on my MISC support (which is coming from the real glareshield so the part is original) the switch is tilted down and goes beyond the lower edge of the MISC support (about 5mm)


Since I have no gaps either between my LEFT AUX (which is real also) the switch now conflicts with the AUX console height.


Of course I could lift the CP by 5mm without really causing any other problem, but then I would have a 5mm gap between the LEFT AUX and the center panel.
No big deal but I'm torturing myself to see how is this possible? Obviously the LEFT AUX and the MISC support are meant to accomodate the switch without any gap, how come I can't?

Any idea is welcome  :wink:
« Last Edit: February 18, 2016, 04:07:10 AM by Red Dog »

Have a bandit day
Red Dog

Offline mihi4

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #619 on: May 21, 2007, 10:51:25 AM »
I had to deal with that problem, too.
My 3-pos switch was just too big.
But I guess my solution won't help you ;-) - I just redesigned my MISC-panel and placed the 2 switches some mm above then in real.

greetings
michi
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Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #620 on: May 23, 2007, 05:07:22 PM »
Lol, thanks Michi. I guess that will remain unsolved for now. I will simply lift up my CP by 4mm and that will do the trick.

In the meantime, I started converting my helmet ...

Pilots have the NVG kit, we have the TIR kit  :D

I started by switching visor as the original one is completely scratchfree and this one is already scratched. For the use I will have, I don't mind.
Then I attached 3 IR spheres (the kind used in hospitals for tracking purposes) the spheres are attached exactly as the Vector expansion has the IR pastils placed on your cap.
For the moment, they are attached with bluetack, but if further test are good enough, I will bore through the visor to attach them.

The good thing is that I can switch visor and get a collector helmet again :)

Initial flight tests were pretty good. I was a lilttle concerned that the smooth surface of the visor might create interference but so far, none were detected...

I hate flying with a cap for the TIR, flying with this stuff is even more scarier  :D
« Last Edit: February 18, 2016, 04:08:39 AM by Red Dog »

Have a bandit day
Red Dog

Offline Jarrod66

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #621 on: May 23, 2007, 07:55:44 PM »
Good job on the TIR setup.  I haven't really used TIR in falcon yet, but I use it religiously in WWII sims.  I can't wait to really use it in Falcon.

My question is, where did you mount your TIR?  I am using a projector and I can't decide where to set my TIR.  I guess I will set it on my ICP as it seems to be the only feasible place.

Jarrod

Offline AiRdAncE

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #622 on: May 24, 2007, 01:19:49 AM »
Quote from: "Jarrod66"
Good job on the TIR setup.  I haven't really used TIR in falcon yet, but I use it religiously in WWII sims.  I can't wait to really use it in Falcon.

My question is, where did you mount your TIR?  I am using a projector and I can't decide where to set my TIR.  I guess I will set it on my ICP as it seems to be the only feasible place.

Jarrod


How about stripping the TIR of it's housing and converting it to the pilot cam on the top rim of the ICP housing ;)
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Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #623 on: May 24, 2007, 05:26:19 AM »
I tried placing the TIR on the ICP column there, right beyond the light sensor. It's a no go.
The TIR is too low and creates angle problem with the IR reflector when placed on the cap or on the top of the head.

Better find a higher position where the TIR can look down at you.
At this time it's on the top of my 24" screen.

Have a bandit day
Red Dog

Offline AiRdAncE

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #624 on: May 24, 2007, 05:36:59 AM »
Quote from: "Red Dog"
I tried placing the TIR on the ICP column there, right beyond the light sensor. It's a no go.
The TIR is too low and creates angle problem with the IR reflector when placed on the cap or on the top of the head.

Better find a higher position where the TIR can look down at you.
At this time it's on the top of my 24" screen.


Makes sense ;)
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Offline HOLLYWOOD

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #625 on: May 24, 2007, 11:22:04 AM »
im going to do the same thing with my helmet... except im going to use IR LED's so the TIR has an easier time "seeing" the points!
HOLLYWOOD

Offline Jarrod66

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #626 on: May 24, 2007, 10:15:49 PM »
I guess I could just mount the reflectors on my nose and cheeks....then maybe they would be low enough..... :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Offline Strale

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #627 on: May 25, 2007, 04:17:48 PM »
Quote from: "Red Dog"
Nope AD, no answer from him. I just got outbid for a kit of 2 bayonet receiver for the helmet on ebay...grrr

back on topic, here's a question that always bothered me and I am now in the thick of it with the placement of the AP mag switch.

First I always wondered why there was a NOTCH on the lower left part of the center panel of Jason drawing... now I know. Without the notch the mag switch doesn't fit.
So I had to dig that notch on the installed panel so the mag switch can be placed correctly.

Guys be smarter than me, if there is a cut you don't want to do because you think you don't need it. Do it anyway. One day you might need it and it will be painfull to do  :twisted:

Then comes the hard part:

Here's a picture of the real bird where the LEFT AUX meets the front panel. As you see thanks to the red arrow, there's no gap between the AUX and the front panel MISC support.

Now, when I mount the magswitch on my MISC support (which is coming from the real glareshield so the part is original) the switch is tilted down and goes beyond the lower edge of the MISC support (about 5mm)


Since I have no gaps either between my LEFT AUX (which is real also) the switch now conflicts with the AUX console height.


Of course I could lift the CP by 5mm without really causing any other problem, but then I would have a 5mm gap between the LEFT AUX and the center panel.
No big deal but I'm torturing myself to see how is this possible? Obviously the LEFT AUX and the MISC support are meant to accomodate the switch without any gap, how come I can't?

Any idea is welcome  :wink:


Olivier,
i think you won't have any solution either to "cut" the left aux consolle.
probably this kind of trouble is due to the fact that you're using the Misc support of the BLOCK 15 ... and the Block 52 has a different layout !
I don't have the chance to check measures .. but i'm ready to bet that on the block 52 vesrion the holes are shifted 5 mm higher than in the old version.
As you know there is also a difference on the widness of the Misc support ... probably all is due only to the need to accomodate a magnetic switch

CHeers
Davide
Strale (Skype: Strale_64)

Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #628 on: May 28, 2007, 06:08:07 AM »
Thanks Strale, and sorry I missed your post Friday ;)
That would be the explanation i was expecting indeed. I will lift a little my CP, no big deal

I finished converting my HGU-55 with an old computer headset that was broken. The hardest thing was to adapt the boom mike, but it's done now and it's working great :)

and here's a closup of the wires exit.


Here's also my 100% complete VVI.


It's still messy back there, I need to work a little more on it...

The bezel is from Ray (thanks mate, they are really great) I modified it a little to implement the backlight. So far it's two while led, but it might still change.

The Flag is a led as well, square type with a flat head, the type used in hifi stuff. I know that using a led is not really appropriate since it wouldn't light without current, but that's not the case in the pit  there's always current.

And finally the needle is driven by a mini RC servo, through fast and SIOC with the USB servo card from Opencockpit.
Programming isn't finished yet because it quite complicated for me to get the non linear response of the VVI - but i will get there.

Next is the AOA, same method
« Last Edit: February 18, 2016, 04:09:08 AM by Red Dog »

Have a bandit day
Red Dog

Offline maestro209

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #629 on: June 05, 2007, 08:31:01 PM »
Quote from: "Red Dog"
It's indeed a DED box from Dunk converted to use with the UCC LCD which we all know is too large because of the PCB.

It's been a project ever since we started the UCC, but none of us really found the time to go further than prototype. When I saw Dunk ded boxes, I just knew it had potential and that was the spark that got me going.

Since the UCC team was aware of that problem since the beginning, a mirror option was created for the DED display so the text is correctly set when the DED LCD is reflected through a 45? mirror.

Work started with cutting the top of the ded box to place the LCD face down. Then a small piece of 4mm mirror was placed at 45? (couldn't find mirror smaller than 4mm thick)
Placing the mirror correctly required careful planning and precision work.
The bottom edge of the mirror was sanded at 45? so it rests flat on the bottom of the plastic box. The top edge of the mirror was left untouched and placed just against the LCD screen.


Here is the initial testing on the top of the DED box with a mirror at 45?. The UCC PCB is still an old proto and will be replaced. The right picture shows the result of the reflected displays with the DED box closed


The problem of using a mirror and placing it at 45? is that the top and bottom edge will not reflect light normally because of the thickness of the mirror. To overcome the bottom edge problem, I made a 1mm trench on the lower part of the ded box so the non reflective part are left unseen.
the consequence is that the 5th line of the DED text is very low on the reflected light.
The ideal solution - as Biohazard found early in the development was to replace the 45? mirror with a prism that would prevent the reflections problems. But I have no access to such a prism.

The older proto PCB was replaced with a production PCB which is much smaller and fit perfectly in the back of the DED box. It's normally supposed to be soldered directly on the LCD PCB but I elected to use wires instead. The hardest thing to do was to remove the line connector on the LCD.

I also place black tape on the LCD that remains green  and spoil the inverted text effect of the UCC DED.

Here's an image of the new assembly test. The pot will go on the outside of the DED box so it can be reached easily to set the LCD brightness.


Next the ded box was painted black inside and outside and all the parts were put together. Note the location of the brightness pot:


Closed box show the added width from the glareshield that i will have to use because of the PCB. I placed a plastic sheet on top of it to protect the PCB from the metallic glareshield, used 4mm plastic spacers to screw the DED box under the right glareshield.

I just need to stick the yellow sticker to place there and I'll be all set.
I will also place a 6mm high plastic strip above the DED to fill the gap between the top of the DED box and the glareshield frame.


Here's a very low quality image (couldn't use the tripod) of the final result of the DED that is almost as small as the original one.


I'm sorry this is posted out of sync, but here is a great place for optics. You should be able to get an optical quality prism from these guys. Yeah the price may be a bit high, but the quality is off the chart!

>M

http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2038
gt;Maestro209

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