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Author Topic: Red Dog's pit - I finally started  (Read 645992 times)

Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #270 on: November 29, 2005, 03:56:45 PM »
while waiting for some components to arrive, I decided to paint some resin button I got from Biohazard. Since a lot of you have resin buttons now - here are some advice  from my modelling experience.

Resin always first need to be washed to clean the residues of the molding agent, so always wash them in a hot water with soap bath. regular dish soap will do. Then let them air dry long enough.

I always use a primer for the resin as well. Mr surfacer from the gunze range is great because it will fill microbubbles at the same time. it can be sprayed with an airbrush. Otherwise, any light grey or even matt white will do.

If you paint a transparent resin, use a white primer to maintain the backlight possibility.

Once the button is painted white, you need to mask the thin line remaining white. I use masking tape (tamiya brand is fine) or even MASKOL (it?s a liquid mastic that you can apply with a brush and then peel off very easily when dry. Perfect for masking curved shaped for instance)

In some cases, there is a black outline to that white strip. You can mask around it and paint the area black. once the paint is dry mask it with tape again so you can start painting in grey.
refrain from removing any masking tape too soon :)

The grey colour might be a problem to get it right. But I feel that the important thing is that it looks good to you. Personnaly, I ran some test by comparing a real button from a chaff&flare panel (thanks Jim) and other colour palettes. the real one is pretty dark and since I plan on wheater my buttons later, i need to use a lighter shade of grey.

So I painted test strips to choose my colour:

left one is the real.

The one closely matching my need is H334 from the gunze range. Those are acrylic paint jars easily found in any model shop.
But as I said, they are too light if you want to get the real colour. The best reference for that purpose is Tamiya XF53. H307 from Gunze is not bad either. The good stuff about the Tamiya XF53 is that you can probably find them as a spray can - the gunze will need to be applied with an airbrush.

Now you can remove the masking tape layers :)

When they have dried 24hours, apply a spray of Dull coat (matt varnish) on the whole button to protect them.

By the way ? do drill them BEFORE painting to avoid damaging the paintwork. :)
 
« Last Edit: February 23, 2016, 10:16:21 AM by Red Dog »

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INBOUND

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #271 on: November 29, 2005, 06:42:29 PM »
Fabulous work!  I hope mine turns out as nice as yours someday!!!

   - INBOUND

Offline Ka-Bar03

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #272 on: November 29, 2005, 09:22:39 PM »
Thanks for the paint tips Olivier, i can use them

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Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #273 on: December 02, 2005, 05:12:03 PM »
Took a lot of time but the buttons are painted.
I realized I'd need 6 or 7 switchguard and only have 1 :) So I decided to make a few of them with aluminium sheets.

That's the prototype - dims comes from the real one I got on the chaff and flare panel. 2 parts bent accordingly and an axle I still need to create:





Still need to tweak it before I paint it and after that I need to figure a way to make the double switch guard for the EPU.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2016, 10:16:42 AM by Red Dog »

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Offline Ka-Bar03

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #274 on: December 02, 2005, 11:25:31 PM »
Nice work, as always Olivier!

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Offline idekkers

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #275 on: December 03, 2005, 02:51:25 AM »
looking great RD,
any chance of posting those dims ?

Ido

Offline dimebug

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #276 on: December 03, 2005, 05:48:07 AM »
very nice, well done, we want the dims  :twisted:

Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #277 on: December 03, 2005, 06:59:52 AM »
Here are the dims.
That's the best i can do at this time, no scanner at home, so I won't be able to scan my millimeter paper before Monday.

I guess that will be clear enough.



read thickness iso width :)
« Last Edit: February 23, 2016, 10:16:53 AM by Red Dog »

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Offline Nikolas_A

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #278 on: December 03, 2005, 07:10:51 AM »
Olivier I've already started puting your dims in a CAD drawing. I hope you don't mind if I ask for some aditional dims. Especialy in the bend shape (I'll post a drawing later to show what I mean).

For the axis you can use roll pins (I think that's what the original uses). Just make the holes on the upper .1 - .2mm bigger. Also I think there's a leaf spring that holds the upper at both positions, is that so? That would be hard to make.

Nikolas

Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #279 on: December 03, 2005, 07:26:22 AM »
no problem, Nikolas - just let me know what you need as additional dims; I'll be happy to provide.

For the axle, I was thinking about a simple metal rod, that should do it.

yes there's a kind of spring  consisting of a bend metal plate riveted on the first parts attached to the switch.
I won't do that one - not worth it IMHO since in my case, the switch guards i'll place will mostly for dummies switch like the zeroize, nuclear,...

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Offline Flareless

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #280 on: December 03, 2005, 07:27:50 AM »
Great work Oliver.  Thanks for posting the dims.
Blue Skies,

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Marvin

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #281 on: December 03, 2005, 08:05:36 AM »
Quote from: "Red Dog"
no problem, Nikolas - just let me know what you need as additional dims; I'll be happy to provide.

For the axle, I was thinking about a simple metal rod, that should do it.

yes there's a kind of spring  consisting of a bend metal plate riveted on the first parts attached to the switch.
I won't do that one - not worth it IMHO since in my case, the switch guards i'll place will mostly for dummies switch like the zeroize, nuclear,...


Oliver,

The switch guards I have were made from a guy from simpits, (forget who) anyway, he had a pretty simple and genious way of making them spring loaded.  I forget how he did it, but I will look at it, later when I get home and take some photos here at work with our evidence camera for some nice close 1/1 detail photos.  That might help you out.

Jody

Offline Ka-Bar03

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #282 on: December 03, 2005, 12:51:27 PM »
Found this in Jags thread,, Looks like Prohm's drawing

Courtesy of Michi







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Offline Red Dog

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #283 on: December 05, 2005, 08:29:28 AM »
Jody, looking forward to that idea :)

Mike, the watch pin is  a pretty clever idea :)

I worked on the front glareshield during the week-end. You know that the A model glareshields are smaller than the MLU/B50 glareshields, so to be able to install the F-ACK and IFF switches holder, the A glareshield needs to be heavily modified.

Once again, Biohazard came to the rescue with a plan to modify them with fiberglass and even a dummy like me could do it :) Philippe and I will try to post a "how to" for the whole modification as freetime permits in the coming weeks.

So here's the modified glareshield, naked but painted in black already.


The master caution support was done in aluminium sheets since mine is not a real F16 MC. The eyebrow support is already screwed on the glareshield.

Next step was to populate the GS with all the subassemblies: eyebrow, MC, spotlight, indexer, misc switches and misc panel and well as the dreaded F-ACK and IFF button holder. On this one, the 4 buttons are available for programming although only the F-ACK is really needed. The F-ACK and IFF button still need some more work since they go too deep into the casing.





I also made two indexer support to go between the indexer and the glareshield. Made in MDF and painted in black. I will post dims of those later on.
I know I used the bad indexer for the picture, I was too lazy to disconnect the other one.



Hope to show you a picture with the assembled component with the lights ON tonight  :lol:
« Last Edit: February 23, 2016, 10:17:31 AM by Red Dog »

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Offline Crease-Guard

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Red Dog's pit - I finally started
« Reply #284 on: December 05, 2005, 12:04:08 PM »
Nice job Oliver.  I'm very interested to see your "how to" on this.  I have the same Glare shield and need to make the same mods.

Jay